California Governor Gavin Newsom in October signed the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 (SB 707) into law. This law “establishes stewardship programs for various products, including, among others, carpet, mattresses, and pharmaceutical and sharps waste,” according to the bill summary.
The law establishes the country’s first Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) textile recycling program and requires all California clothing producers to join a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) by 2026. Also, by 2030, all PROs are required to implement a stewardship program to manage the entire life cycle of their waste, including the collection, transportation, repair, sorting, recycling, and safe and proper management of apparel and textile articles in the state.
“Once implemented, SB 707 will not only reduce the amount of textiles sent to landfills but will also support the development of upcycling and recycling across California and help address the environmental impacts of ‘fast fashion’ and the ‘throwaway culture’ it has abetted,” states a press release issued by California Senator Josh Newman, D-Fullerton.
“I’m very proud to see SB 707 signed into law. It will have a major positive impact on California’s environment and communities. SB 707 isn’t just about recycling; it’s about transforming the way we think about textile waste,” said Newman in the press release. “The framework created by SB 707 will create new opportunities for every Californian to participate in a more sustainable future. By 2030, convenient drop-off locations for used textiles across the state will provide everyone with a free and simple way to be part of the solution. California is again at the forefront of innovation, proving we can lead the way in creating a circular and sustainable textile economy that benefits everyone.”
Globally, the fashion industry accounts for 10 percent of carbon emissions, according to Newman’s press release.
The law also requires producers to cover the costs associated with the stewardship program.
“A 2021 report published by CalRecycle estimated that more than one million tons of textiles are discarded annually in California,” reports law firm Jones Day. “Under this new law, each PRO industry participant will fund the PRO with annual fees based on their sales volume in California. A participant’s required contribution may be reduced to account for a company’s preexisting collection, recycling, and reuse programs. The Act authorizes CalRecycle to impose administrative civil penalties up to $10,000 per day for violating the program’s requirements, or $50,000 per day for an intentional or knowing violation.”
France and the Netherlands are credited as being the first countries to adopt EPR programs for textiles and clothing, and other E.U. countries are reported to have similar regulations in progress. With California leading the way in the United States, other states are expected to create similar regulations in the future.
“In response to the bill’s passage, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) is intensifying its relationships with PROs across industries, according to Chelsea Murtha, senior director of sustainability at AAFA,” notes fashion and apparel news site Fashion Dive. “She said the organization is additionally working with other stakeholders and AAFA membership to be in the ‘best possible position to assist’ with PRO formation.”